Smeagol is Free!
A hermitudinal view of...stuff...


Just One

Sure, there's a happy aspect to going home. Always is. But you know what? I'm really wanting to be home right now. Not just to be at home, but to be home. There's a huge difference between the two.

*Sigh* much of life is overwhelmingly hectic and frustrating, and even now, all I want is to sit out in the lineup at Kewalo's and catch one. Just one. That's what I told Kev last night, that I need just one wave while I'm at home. That's probably all I can catch right now, with my surfing muscles all but non-existent. Oh well. Being out there is what counts most :)

I used to spend hours out there on my own. Ask Dad...he'd spend hours waiting for me to pick him up while I lost myself, wave after wave, set after set, session after session. I felt like I had to, back then. I'd be floating above the jagged reef below, feeling about as free as I could from any earthly cares. It was sober and carefree all at once; what could be better?

*Sigh*...just one...just one.

Paddling out and duck-diving through in the channel, I always felt like I was losing something. But you know what? I think I always felt like I found something better in return.

posted by Bolo | 9:40 AM
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